The 1190s fashion marked a significant time in medieval European fashion, influenced by the social, economic, and cultural shifts of the era. Clothing in the 1190s fashion was not only a reflection of status but also deeply tied to societal roles and norms, with distinct trends emerging across the nobility, clergy, and common folk. From tunics and pointed shoes to luxurious fabrics and armor-inspired clothing, the 1190s paved the way for the fashion that would evolve in the 13th century. In this article, we explore the most notable fashion trends of the 1190s, highlighting how they shaped medieval European clothing.
The Influence of Class on 1190s Fashion
Medieval Europe was a society deeply divided by class, and fashion was a clear indicator of one’s social status. The 1190s fashion saw a stark contrast in clothing between the upper classes, such as nobility and clergy, and the common folk. Those of higher status wore elaborate garments made from expensive materials, while the lower classes wore simpler, more practical attire.
Nobility and Clergy: A Display of Wealth
The nobility in the 1190s fashion often wore richly adorned garments, a symbol of their status and wealth. Noblemen and noblewomen could afford the finest fabrics such as silk, velvet, and fine wool, often in vibrant colors like crimson, gold, and purple. These materials were not only expensive but also signified high social standing.
The clergy also wore elaborate robes, typically in dark, rich colors such as black or burgundy, with the most elaborate embroidery and adornments being reserved for higher-ranking members of the Church. For example, bishops and abbots often wore chasubles (a long, flowing garment) adorned with intricate gold thread and precious stones.
Common Folk: Practical and Modest Clothing
In contrast, the common folk wore clothing made from simpler materials such as coarse wool or linen. The garments were more practical, designed to withstand the demands of manual labor. The colors worn by peasants were typically more muted, with browns, grays, and earthy tones dominating their wardrobe. These simpler outfits included tunic-style dresses for women and basic tunics for men, often paired with sturdy leather shoes or boots.
Key Fashion Trends of the 1190s
While the 1990s fashion trends were influenced by the class distinctions of the time, several key styles emerged that were worn by both the wealthy and the working class. These included long tunics, pointed shoes, cloaks, and other iconic garments that defined the medieval wardrobe.
Tunics and Surcoats: The Foundation of Medieval Clothing
The tunic was a staple of medieval clothing, worn by both men and women throughout the 1190s fashion. For men, tunics were typically long, reaching down to the knees or lower, and often featured wide sleeves. These garments were practical, providing warmth and comfort while being flexible enough for physical activity. The surcoat, a sleeveless outer garment worn over the tunic, was particularly common during this period. Surcoats were often worn by noblemen over their armor and became a symbol of the knightly class, as well as a fashionable item of everyday wear.
For women, long gowns with fitted bodices and wide skirts became the norm in the 1190s fashion. These gowns often featured long, flowing sleeves and a high waistline, giving them an elegant and graceful silhouette. The side seams of some gowns were left open to reveal the undergarments, resulting in a look that became known as the sideless gown, a key trend of the time.
Pointed Shoes: A Symbol of Status and Wealth
One of the most distinctive 1990s fashion trends was the rise of pointed shoes. These shoes, which featured long, sharp toes, were often worn by both men and women and became a clear sign of social distinction. The pointed toe design, which was difficult to craft and uncomfortable to wear, became a fashion statement that displayed one’s wealth and status.
For the wealthy, pointed shoes were often made of fine leather or even velvet, while the lower classes had simpler versions made from wool or other more affordable materials. The exaggerated length of the toes in some cases even reached up to a foot or more, with the point being tied to the wearer’s leg with a cord. This extreme style became known as “poulaines”, and while it was impractical, it was an essential part of noble fashion.
Cloaks and Capes: Essential Outerwear for All Classes
Both men and women in the 1190s fashion wore cloaks and capes as essential outer garments. Cloaks were worn for warmth, protection from the elements, and, most importantly, as a fashion statement. Wealthy individuals often wore fur-lined cloaks, with expensive furs like mink or sable being highly prized. The chaperon, a long flowing hood worn by men, was one of the most iconic headpieces of the period and often incorporated elaborate decorations, including brooches or jewels, to showcase wealth.
Women also wore capes over their gowns, often with decorative features like embroidery or metal clasps. In addition to cloaks, veils and wimples became common accessories for women, particularly those of the upper classes. The wimple was a cloth that covered the neck and chin, leaving the face exposed, and was seen as a symbol of modesty and respectability.
Military Influence: Armor and Fashion Merged
During the 1190s fashion, the growing importance of knighthood and military campaigns had a significant impact on fashion. The influence of armor began to filter into civilian clothing, particularly for the nobility. Chainmail shirts, plate armor, and helmets became increasingly popular, particularly for the warrior class.
While armor was primarily worn for protection in battle, its influence on civilian clothing is evident in the rise of surcoats—loose-fitting garments that were worn over armor. These garments, which often featured coats of arms or other insignia, were practical for knights but also became a fashionable item for the wealthy. The association of knights with valor and honor led to the surcoat becoming a fashionable outer garment for the nobility.
Hairstyles and Headgear: Personal Grooming and Modesty
Hairstyles during the 1190s fashion were heavily influenced by social class and gender. Men typically wore their hair short, often keeping it neatly trimmed for practical reasons. Beards were common among the men of the time, and various grooming tools, such as razors and combs, were used to maintain facial hair.
For women, the trend was to wear the hair long, often styled in braids or loose curls. Women of higher social rank often decorated their hair with ribbons, jewels, or other adornments. For modesty and religious reasons, married women were expected to cover their hair, with veils or wimples becoming common accessories for the upper classes.
The chaperon, a form of headgear worn by men, was a highly fashionable item in the 1190s fashion. The chaperon could be styled in various ways, often with a long, trailing end that wrapped around the shoulders. This headpiece became synonymous with the knightly class, signaling both practical and fashionable elements.
Fabrics and Colors: A Reflection of Wealth
The fabrics used in clothing during the 1190s varied greatly depending on social class. For the wealthy, garments were often made from expensive materials such as silk, velvet, and fine wool, while the lower classes wore coarse wool or linen. These fabrics were dyed using natural dyes, with the most vibrant colors often reserved for the nobility.
Crimson, purple, and gold were the most sought-after colors, as they symbolized wealth and power. These colors were difficult to produce and required expensive dyes, making them exclusive to the upper classes. In contrast, common folk wore earthy tones like brown, gray, and green, which were more affordable and practical.
Conclusion: Fashion in the 1190s fashion as a Social Indicator
The fashion trends of the 1190s fashion reflect a society where clothing was not just a matter of style, but also a key indicator of one’s social class, role, and status. From luxurious fabrics and elaborate garments worn by the nobility to the simpler, more practical clothing of the common folk, the 1190s marked a period of clear distinctions in how individuals presented themselves.
The influence of the Church, military fashion, and social norms shaped clothing trends during this era. The pointed shoes, long tunics, and surcoats were not just clothing items but symbols of one’s position in the hierarchical structure of medieval society. As the 1190s fashion gave way to the 13th century, these trends would continue to evolve, laying the foundation for the more ornate and intricate fashions that would define later medieval Europe.